Sail Track Replacement
 

I am pulling my main mast off my Spencer 44 ketch soon and am considering repainting it. This would probably require removal of the existing internal slide sail track which is 2 inches wide and riveted on at 2 inch intervals (1 inch down near the gooseneck). Since it might be easier to replace the sail track rather than strip, recondition and repaint it (and I can't find replacement internal slide track), I was wondering what the advisability is with regard to bolting on an external slide sail track. This would add a lot of holes right up the center of the old rivet holes which seems a little too Swiss Cheesy to me.

The mast is about 50' high and has a cross section of approximately 8 1/2" x 7" in a flat-sided oval shape. I think it has at least a 3/16" wall thickness.

Upper mast rivets:


Mast rivets near gooseneck:


The boom is similar but the rivets are spaced 3" apart and the boom is 4 1/2" in diameter.

Here's the boom track:


I don't mind the idea of changing over to an external slide track since the internal slides bind a lot inside the painted track. Overall, these spars seem to be in good condition so I'd prefer not to have to replace them. I'm just wondering what others have done or would do in this situation.

Thanks,
John

Harken batt car system. It is a pretty expensive upgrade, but would allow you to leave the old track in place, and really works amazingly well. For a mast that size probably around $2,000 if you do the installation yourself (really easy process, though if possible do it while the mast is down. The ball bearing races allow easy reeling even when reaching or running. So long as the sail is not actually pressed against the shrouds.

Hmmm ...now there's an option I hadn't considered. I guess I'd have to use the intermediate slides since my main does not use full battens.

That still doesn't address the issue of track removal prior to painting but it looks like the existing track was painted in place anyway. It might be possible to strip and repaint it in place. If too much paint gets in the track I could just jam the slugs in there since they wouldn't have to move after mounting.

I'm not sure how much this would move the tack aft. I don't think the headboard would hit my triatic but this might still require a new sail. The existing main is pretty old and needs to be replaced but I've been trying to address my antiquated rigging in stages.

I guess there's also that UHMWPE Strong Track system. Didn't think that I wanted my sail hanging off of plastic but that's what the existing slides are (probably not UHMW-anything). In either system there's still the luff setback issue.

Another couple of boat units added to the total isn't really an issue for a system that works well but I might have to talk to my sail-maker about this one...

So ...I've pulled the mast and most bits look good (aside from the crusty mast step). I'm thinking that I'll have to drill the rivets on the sail track, have it stripped separately and re-use it. To reduce the friction I might have to install either the Battcar system or the Strong Track system.

My sail-maker likes the Strong Track system https://www.tidesmarine.com/?page_id=61 and seems to think it would work best (no joints, less of an offset from the mast and reduced stack height of the slides). Does anyone here have any experience with the working life of the Strong Track UHMW-PE track? Would these have a lifespan similar to my black Delrin sheaves?

I have never used the strong track (that I am aware of), but the reviews on it are very good. When I priced it out for my boat though it was more than half the price of the harken system. So I went with the harken for a few reasons.

1) I knew it was good because we use it on a 50' Colombia I race on, and it is amazing
2) harken is a major company with exallent customer support
3) the price was only about 50% more
4) while I trust slides, I have never seen one that worked as well as ball bearings to reduce friction


That being said I have no feeling that the strong track is a bad unit, I just didn't feel the price was enough less to justify it.

I installed the Strong Track on my Bristol 34 in, I think, 2001. It appears to be virtually indestructible and is practically friction-free in operation. Far from having to pull the sail down, I hold the halyard with one hand to control the sail's descent and do a preliminary flake with the other hand. And no ball bearings to bind up!

Jim Fulton