[Renoir]

The "easiest" method is to use a right angle air tool and 3-M Rollok (sp?) sanding discs then moving to the 3-M abrasive pads and then buffing wheels.

For welds start with 36 grit discs then 60, and 80. Practice your method of using the outer diameters of the discs so as to not cause unwanted damage to areas adjacent to the welds. Move then through the coarse, medium, and then fine abrasive pads. The 2 inch diameter pads work best on tight places and work everywhere else also. Use the abrasive pads to work through removing the marks left by the bending dies used to form your piece.

Buffing takes a lot of horsepower. Use the black sticks for compound designed for stainless. Use 3-M (there are a few other brands as well) fiber wheels (they look like a plastic version of wire wheels and cups) which are impregnated with a fine abrasive, to get inside the welds that you cannot dress down with the fiber pads if the welds have not been left "proud" of the adjacent virgin stainless. This removes mostly the coloration left by the welding process which needs passivation to keep from showing rust and discoloration. A better method of "electrocleaning" without having to use nasty combinations of Nitric acid is to use a 25-30 Volt power supply current limited to about 1 Amp. Attach the negative lead of the supply to a sponge soaked with Oxalic acid (a common benign acid found in Rhubarb, for example, and most easily obtained as FSR...Fiberglass Stain Remover in boat stores). Attach the positive lead to the stainless. Slowly work the gel-impregnated sponge around the welds and watch the discoloration dissappear. This works well for cleaning rust off of stainless. Grease and oil will interfere with this process.

If you allow too much heat buildup to occur when dwelling with a buffer wheel on the part you will discolor the stainless and need to either electroclean it with the power supply or use an abrasive pad again before buffing again.