I like that locking sheet bend, with the exception that it only has a good lead in one direction. When doing multiple rappels all in a row, the rope you must pull on alternates, so the lead would be alternately fair and foul. Another factor in trying to sell new knots to climbers, is that lots of them are really dumb, and a euro death knot is the only one they can understand. Any bend that requires thought and care in tying is liable to be mis-tied, especially in rain or snow or darkness, with possibly fatal consequenses. So change comes slowly, because climbing instructors want to teach the easiest possible bend and so lose the least amount of students later on.
|