[jhambly]

Brian.

The spartite I removed from the single inline spreader, keel stepped, mast head, cutter rigged aluminum 52' spar was a mere 1/8" thick at the leading edge and 1" at the aft end. I moved the maststep aft 1/4" with the idea that would help to provide slightly more thickness and now in the process of replacing spartite. Having read your post about keeping the "butt" as far fwd as possible, perhaps that wasn't such a good idea but 1/8" just seemed so thin. Of course, now the teak and holly boards in the cabin sole don't fit (1/4" gap - no surprise there). Clearly I didn't think that one through!

Is it really possible, or recommended, to drive (or to quote Hall Spars, "finesse") the butt forward without a crane if the rig is slackened off?

Q. When preparing to spartite, here are the steps I understood from your post?

1. Lateral tune to center mast in boat with an effort not to bend the rig. So commence with a loose (hand tight?) rig. Adjust using uppers (caps) to center mast head with respect to top of chainplate or gunwale on each side?
2. Adjust rake using forestay and backstay without adding bend( are lower shrouds used at this point?)
3. Don't stress about being centered in the partners. Hard one for me to adhere to but I'll try.
4. Spartite or wedge and allow to cure.
5. As you stated above, now put "a real tune on the rig".

So if i understand correctly, the compressive loading and pre bending is not added until after the spartite is set in the partners?

Thanks for the help.

James