synthetic rigging and roller furler

[kentobin]

Hi All,

I plan on re-rigging with synthetic rigging and was wondering what solution(s), if any, are being used for a roller furler on dynex dux or equivalent.

A similar vacuum in my knowledge base is what solution(s) are in use for making a backstay antenna with dynex dux or attaching some type of antenna to a backstay made of dynex dux.

I've found a number of links to using synthetic rigging but none covering the above topics.

One of my favorite sites on synthetic rigging threads has been: http://www.cruisersforum.com/.

Thanks in advance.

Fair winds and following seas and long may your big jib draw,

Ken

[Jack]

Kentobin,

So far the only furler that fits a Dux forestay is Spintec. There is a conflict with the size of the rope and splice not fitting a foil designed for wire. The splice on 9mm Dynex Dux has a two foot bury. This makes the rope fat at the top and bottom.

A number of boats have left the wire on the forstay (the Westsail for one) There is no problem swapping out or mix and matching Wire/Rope.

It is recommended if you change one side, change the other side to match.

Continuous line furlers have replaced Roller Furlers on many boats now also. Photos at:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...r-22345-4.html

There is a lot of discussion on SSB's. Dux has the same insulator properties as phenolic. You can run a bare copper wire up the side of a backstay for a radio. We thought maybe to run it up inside the rope, but this will create a stress riser according to the engineers.I am no expert, but we use the bare copper wire in Alaska on the big boats. Works great.


What size boat/Rig do you have?

[Gary]

Ken,
I am rigging my boat with synthetic. You may want to check out what I did for roller furling using Dyneema. I LOVE the setup!
Go to www.garyfelton.com/shanti

Have fun!
Gary

[Jack]

Gary those are wonderful photos. You boat looks great. BCC is still one of my all time favorite boats.

I believe you have a continuous line furler on your bowsprit set up Nice looking solution you have there.

This is not a roller furling set up however. They are similar but very different.

A continuous line furler can be added anywhere as it does not require a stay to go over as rolling furler does.

I also use a continuous line furler and love it. I have rolled up 3 different headsails with it, and have tacked it on the outer bows on my Trimaran when running off the wind, to get a full headsail not blanketed by the mainsail.

The problem for guys with rolling furlers is the foil is designed for a certain size wire. Using a synthetic line does not fit. There are splices on each end of the headstay that have two foot bury on 9mm Dux for example. This is just too fat for the foil.

[kentobin]

I'd like to thank everyone for their posts.

If Brion or Gordon should happen read this are you planning on a synthetic rigging class or seminar?

Fair winds and following seas and long may your big jib draw!

Ken

[Gashmore]

I don't believe i would use Dynex Dux inside a roller furling foil unless the foil was supplied with fixed bearings to keep the foil off the Dynex. I have been torturing a length of 9mm for the last year testing elongation, creep and abrasion. This stuff is incredibly tough but the yarns are made up of incredibly small fibers that can get a little fuzzy with enough abrasion. An aluminum foil rubbing around it every day in places where you can't see it would make me a little wary.

OTHO, on the backstay antenna, I stuffed a piece of 16 gauge bare tinned and braided copper inside my victim and pulled it to 60% of MBL and it stood up fine. It does increase the angle of the lay which theoretically increases the load on the yarns but bare 16 gauge is about the same size as a yarn of 9mm and there is one of those at the end of the taper of both splices so I am not so sure that it making a stress riser point is much to worry about. You really need to size Dynex Dux to no more than 12-15% of MBL to keep the creep in check so a few percent loss in breaking strength should not be noticeable.

A few other things: This rope is so stiff that running 23' of wire up inside it would be a real PITA. I would use annealed copper because when you pull it to reset the yarns it is going to grab the wire long before it completely stretches out. There is a good chance that the hard temper copper sold for Ham antennas would get pulled apart. Lastly be sure to run the wire in and tension the line to at least 2,000 pounds before cutting and putting in the second splice. The wire is going to considerably shorten the length.