Turk's Head

[AaronS]

How does one draw up a Turk's head tightly around an object? I've been making quite a few of these, just simple 3 Lead and 4 and 5 Bight versions, but I thought it might be simpler, and sometimes easier, to make them a little bit larger and then tighten them up. Is this possible? Or, do I have to make my first pass fairly tight, then let the successive turns increase the tension? I really am in awe of their simple beauty, and how, with a little french hitching, they dress up anything you might put your hand to. Thanks Brion, in advance, for this forum and the "Apprentice".

Aaron

[Ian McColgin]

Ahoy Aaron,

When you really understand the structure of the knot, this will get easier. To start, try leaving a pin in the line just about halfway through the turk's head. When ready, enter at that point with a marling spike and pull up what slack you can. Keep the axis of the head in the same position relative to you throughout what comes next. I'll write as if you chose normal to you so the axis goes left to right. So roll the work top away from you till you see where the strand you pulled up goes under something and comes out again. Enter here with your spike and pull it tight. Keep doing this till you get to the end of the knot. Now, revers left and right, return to the pin and pull up what slack you can, and repeat.

When I was a Cub Scout I made one for my handkerchief slide. Formed up so tightly on the dowel I was using as a form that it took Dad's help to get it off. One of the nicest places for a Turk's Head is at the king spoke of a destroyer style wheel.

G'luck

Ian

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
Let's say you have tripled the knot. As you draw up, the part you are tightening will compress the other two parts on one side of the knot, and be in the clear on the other. The compressed bits can be easy to distort, and you'll gett a mess that is very hard to straighten out. So on the compression side, move all three parts, all or partway through the knot. Drop off the two you are not tightening at the other side. Tighten the strand you are working on back across the knot to the compression side. Repeat. This is one nice detail out of a host that you will develop, in increments, as you get to know the knot.
Since it will obviously help to see how it's done, I can honestly recommend my Fancywork video series. The first one covers Turk's Heads.
Meanwhile, just remember little-by-some, and keeping the knot symmetrical as you go. Oh, and once the first part is drawn up, do the next one to exactly the same tension. Likewise the third. After each full pass, then, you should have a smooth, balanced knot. How tight you eventually go, after say three or four passes, is up to your skill and energy.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[Ian McColgin]

No wonder I never get happily past three! Good to learn something. Thanks.

[Don Z.]

And while I rarely disagree with Ian's seamanship, I'd like to add that while not as traditional, if you're dealing with small stuff, a pair of duckbill pliers might prove easier than a marlinespike...

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
Yes, for really tight work, a pair of "soft-jawed" duckbills, like leather workers use, can be handy, particularly when the bights of loosel line that you are pulling through are too big for easy prying with a spike. Having a duckbill shaped filed on the end of the spike is also very good, as it makes a "shelf" for the line to hang on as you bring it up. What is it with ducks?
Fair leads,
Brion Toss