Chainplate materials

[Kinsa]

Hi Brion,
Thanks for the speedy reply, and of course the thumbs up! I intend to use the existing shafted bolts (A4) to fix the chainplates. Although I could obtain the appropriate rod and thread it, I decided to stay with the stainless because: 1) the underdeck location is dry 2) there will be a HDPE washer between stainless washer and chainplate 3) will use Tefgel or Lanolin to isolate shaft and chainplate hole and finally 4) I can monitor (see) and withdraw all the bolts easily.
The test was recommended to me by someone in the heavy lifting industry, and the key is the metal between point of suspension and the hammer stroke. If SCC is present, then the metal between the clevis pin hole and the point where the chainplate is struck doesn´t conduct the vibrations properly - I guess a bit like a guitar string when not cleanly fretted.
I have your excellent book "The complete riggers apprentice". An old seadog pointed out a small "improvement" which was new to me. "A knot and a tail" - means that all ropes with a stopper knot should have a tail long enough to grab hold of and pull when the worst happens and the stopper knot does its job. Quite logical when you think about it.
Yours aye,
Bill Attwood