Chainplates

[SV Papillon]

If you are going to sand SS you will want to pickle it before the final buffing, the sanding will bring out ferous metal and rust if exposed to saltwater. Pickling paste, availible through most welding suppliers, is a acid that will remove the ferous metal. Make sure to follow the instructions for application and removing as it is a strong acid. SS flat bar is availible in multiple grades to get away from too mush finish work. Another alternative is silicon bronze which is also sold in flat bar stock. If you are in the NW check out Alaskan Copper and Brass.

regards

T Scott

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
I'll just add that you want to avoid manganese bronze and naval bronze; both are actually forms of brass.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[osteoderm]

I've had great success cleaning up stainless with wet-dry sandpaper. If it's really rough, a Fein or disc sander with 180- or 220-grit to start, but I've had best luck finishing by hand with a succesion of grits, 400 down to 1600. If you keep the grades of paper close each time you change, it's really not as much nad-sanding as you'd think, and the final pickling and buffing with rouge or compound goes really quickly.
Also, always drill any holes after all bends have been made.
Also, for pieces such as backing plates that don't need to look all snazzy, I know a few folks whoswear by acid-resistant stainless boilerplate. I can't recall the numerical alloy grade of the stuff... Doesn't take a polish for damn, but also doesn't rust as quickly as normal 304 or 316.