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  #1  
Old 05-18-2007, 03:35 PM
osteoderm osteoderm is offline
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Default modern selvagees and lashings

When I first read about Loups, I thought, "Aha, a modern selvagee with a cover!". I'm curious if anyone here has had experience using modern HM line in traditional siezings and lashings.
I've seen plain old nylon seine twine lashings perform remarkably on traditional boats (when correctly applied); why not similar lashings in modern smallstuffs on modern boats?
Whether it's making a grommet/Loup or applying a seizing/lashing, operator skill and experience is important. I get the impression that pre-made solutions like the Loup are out there because, while the materials are improving, some of these traditional skills are vanishing.
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2007, 05:35 AM
Brian Duff Brian Duff is offline
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I have been using the 1.75 mm Samson Dyneema single braid for lashings and seizing for some time now, and find that the solution is excellent where elimination of stainless hardware is desired, or hardware not available for the application. I have found it is important to install a complete brummel and bury to make any eye or double bury with stitching for end to ends connections, as the stuff is slippery and knots or regular bury will slip right out.
I will be using this material next month for the structural seizing binding the pair of shrouds each side on a gaffer we are working on, and the deadeye into the spliced eyes on the wire, and will let you all know how it works out.

I think the harken loupes made by Yale are indeed a many wraps of small stuff and that you could make your own, as I have been doing. they are reported to get stronger with use as the strands come to bear even load through cyclic loading.

" I first made a loop, then made a locked Brummel, then buried each end till it was a good ways around the loop - ends were tapered over 2-3 inches or so. Then did a bit of stitching to secure it when not under load."

maybe I am way behind the times, but I haven't figured out yet how to put a locked brummel into a grommet, whatís the secret ?
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BVI Yacht Sales, Tortola
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2007, 04:11 PM
Amgine
 
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Default This may be it...

The text accompanying these graphics is awful. But if you look through it a few times you'll figure it out. http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_...ceBrummel.aspx The goal is to pull out B, then A, rather than the reverse, so your tail bury is going into the leg of the loop. (I haven't done this splice, but I can see the theory. The pass-throughs may need to be reversed.)

This splice should work in any single braid, and I think someone could figure out how to cover it.

Last edited by Amgine : 05-26-2007 at 04:19 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2007, 08:39 PM
SV Papillon SV Papillon is offline
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The new england ropes drawings were very good super simple and the splice makes sense finally.
thanks
Jake
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2007, 06:43 PM
Brion Toss Brion Toss is offline
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Default It's impossible

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Duff View Post
I have been using the 1.75 mm Samson Dyneema single braid for lashings and seizing for some time now, and find that the solution is excellent where elimination of stainless hardware is desired, or hardware not available for the application. I have found it is important to install a complete brummel and bury to make any eye or double bury with stitching for end to ends connections, as the stuff is slippery and knots or regular bury will slip right out.
I will be using this material next month for the structural seizing binding the pair of shrouds each side on a gaffer we are working on, and the deadeye into the spliced eyes on the wire, and will let you all know how it works out.
Hi Brian,
Yes, it's a wonderful renaissance of ropework we are seeing now, though of course there's a bit of a learning curve with the new materials. Please do be in touch about your gaffer project!


Quote:
" I first made a loop, then made a locked Brummel, then buried each end till it was a good ways around the loop - ends were tapered over 2-3 inches or so. Then did a bit of stitching to secure it when not under load."

maybe I am way behind the times, but I haven't figured out yet how to put a locked brummel into a grommet, whatís the secret ?
A dear friend of mine regretfully informed me that my search for a locked Brummel in a grommet was doomed to failure. He explained that it was topologically impossible, as the load always came onto the wrong parts, so the Brummel would come undone. So when I figured out how to do it, and gave him a finished sample, he spent a couple of sleepless nights trying to figure it out. He finally came back into the shop, red-eyed and haggard, and said, "Alright, show me how you did it."
It's in the splicing handbook.
Fair leads,
Brion
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  #6  
Old 06-27-2007, 05:49 AM
glynn glynn is offline
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Default What's a grommet for?

Hi Guys,
I have been following this thread with interest and have even had the book open looking at HM grommets, but I have to come clean.
When I have struggled to make one of these loops how and where would I use it to replace expensive and heavy shackles?
AND would I have to make it in situ?

Looking forward to some help here.

Glynn
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  #7  
Old 06-28-2007, 05:14 AM
Matthew Sebring Matthew Sebring is offline
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Default

I believe the more recent harken catalog show several in use.
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2007, 09:42 PM
RoyB RoyB is offline
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2007, 01:47 PM
glynn glynn is offline
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Default loupes

Thanks Guys ,
It 's all clearer now, but I think I'll pass on these for a while .I'm still struggling with an eye splice in braid on braid.

Glynn
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2007, 06:22 PM
mrgnstrn mrgnstrn is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brion Toss View Post
Hi Brian,
Yes, it's a wonderful renaissance of ropework we are seeing now, though of course there's a bit of a learning curve with the new materials. Please do be in touch about your gaffer project!


A dear friend of mine regretfully informed me that my search for a locked Brummel in a grommet was doomed to failure. He explained that it was topologically impossible, as the load always came onto the wrong parts, so the Brummel would come undone. So when I figured out how to do it, and gave him a finished sample, he spent a couple of sleepless nights trying to figure it out. He finally came back into the shop, red-eyed and haggard, and said, "Alright, show me how you did it."
It's in the splicing handbook.
Fair leads,
Brion
Which book exactly?
"Working Rope #1"? #2?
"Complete Riggers Apprentice"?
Also, are your books available outside of Washington?
I would love to be able to thumb through them to make sure I buy the right one(s).
Anyplace near Annapolis, MD?
Thanks,
-M
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