measuring lifelines ?

[Matthew Sebring]

No, I don't do a cumulative measurement, just the individual sections. Then I do and overall measurement basically to double check that I measured the sections correctly (that everything adds up).

[Brion Toss]

Hi there,
We, too, have had numerous lifeline/supplier issues over the years. The biggest single preventative measure is to have an accurate drawing, with terminal types included. The drawing shows bearing point measurements as well as lengths. You can check to see that the segments add up to LOA, though this invlolves stanchion thickness to be taken into account.
A written list, as an emphatic/consistent backup is also a good idea. And a supplier that is paying attention is a plus.
As for standards, funny you should mention that; we have been talking about the idea for years, and are possibly about to do something about it. More on this soon.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[kristian]

As always, it depends!

If I'm replicating an existing span of wire, I'll generally use the pin center standard. If measuring for a new or lost lifeline I'll measure from the bearing points.

The most important detail here for me is to make accurate notes on every measurement. For example, I have a Beneteau that I'm making new lifelines for tomorrow. The rear gate has existing pieces of wire that fit well, but everything along the sheer is missing. My notes read something like:

Rear Gate Top: End stud (1/4 28 x 3.5") to pin center (toggle jaw 1/4" pin) 6 '4 1/2"
Fwd Span Bottom: BP pulpit eye to BP (aft face stanchion for gate eye) 35' 8 5/16"

I do most of my 1/8"-1/4" swaging in house, but for the things that have to be ordered I:
a)order from someone good, who I know will ask questions if anything looks even slightly off or is unclear
b)make really really clear notes. While this may take a couple seconds of extra time it's never hurt me to have more info than less.

Just today I saved myself over a grand by having good notes. I went to measure of pair of match racing boats for new standing rigging. Looked pretty normal, Tballs and turnbuckles etc etc. Just for kicks I measured the backing plates and TBalls. Before making out my build sheet I decided to double check the Navtec Tballs. Turns out they weren't even close, and were in fact OS Rigging parts from Sweden. If I had made the sets of rigging up with standard TBalls, they'd be totally wrong and I'd end up replacing them.