Pin direction thru mast tangs

[Patrick_Seattle]

When I took my rig down the pins on some tangs, the onese where you need to remove the tangs to remove the pins were placed from the inside out (i.e., the cotter was on the outside away from the mast).

Is there any standard for the direction you insert the pint through the mast tangs?

If I put the cotters on the outside the pin can't be removed without removing the tang.
If I put the cotters on the inside I might scratch my newly painted spars (I know a little vain).

I'm more concerned about the pin being captured behind the tang though. Part of me views that as a backup to the cotter and part of me views that as a pain since that what it was to remove the tangs to remove the pins in the first place.

Thanks,
-p

[Brion Toss]

Hi,
In almost every instance, the cottered end should be inboard, so that the pins are removable at need, and so that the cotters are unlikely to snag on things and people. If the clevis pins are needlessly long, it can be tempting to invert the pins, to save the paint, but that is about the wrong pin length. If correct-length pins still scratch the paint, then the tangs are too short. This is important, as, in addition to scratched paint, you will have an even harder time than usual in getting at the cotters.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[Patrick_Seattle]

Thanks Brion. that makes a lot of sense!

-p

[Brian Duff]

The rule I was taught by Brad Storm, a rigger I learned a whole lot from - applies to nuts, cotter pins, etc is thus:

Inboard, aft or down.

In other words, first choice is inboard, second is aft (chain plates on deck for instance) or down ( spreader pins for example) and the reason for this is that a casual inspection form the cockpit might or a tour of the deck can see all is in place....

[Stevienjackson]

Is it acceptable to use rigging wire in place of cooter pins? I'm replacing the port spreader and upper shroud on my Ranger 33. I discovered, to my horror, on the port tang someone used rigging wire instead of a cotter pin to retain the inward facing clovis pin. Clearances are very narrow, and the tangs are probably too short as you mention above. On the opposite side there is a plastic washer under the tang which seems to increase the clearance between mast and tang. Should I add a similar washer to bring the port tang further out? Installing longer tangs might result in making the current shrouds to long to use.

Also, any suggestions on where to find rig tension guidelines for a Ranger 33?



Thanks,
Steve