Mobius Brummel Instructions

[Ted Reshetiloff]

Im looking for good instructions for doing these in 12 strand dyneema single braid. Can anyone point me to a printable source? I need to make several dyneema strops with eyes in both ends and am thinking this is the correct splice to use only I have not been successful at finding a set of instructions. Google led me to a precourt instruction but it appears mislabeled and is not in fact a mobius brummel. Thanks

Ted in Annapolis

[CAM]

For strops where you have easy access to both sides, conventional brummel and tapered bury is easiest.

This instruction by NE Ropes is what I know as a mobius brummel where you need access to only one end. The other downside to this method is the inability to splice through a ring or block. The mobius is a tool, use it only when you must.

[Ted Reshetiloff]

I want to splice the dyneema to rings on one end and snap hooks on another. I was hoping to avoid cowhitching anything. Perhaps the Mobius is not the way to go? I'm making a bridle to lift an inflatable dinghy with. The lift lines from the davits are 64" apart. I have two stainless rings to which I was going to connect the lift lines from the davits via snap shackles. I was going to splice dyneema to the two rings making them 64" apart. Then to each ring I was also going to splice 2 strops to go lift points on the dinghy. The ends of the strops would be spliced to appropriately rated snap hooks.

So I need to be able to splice around rings and snap hooks and not have access to the opposite ends of the line. I was going to use this splice:

http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/12S_C2_EyeSpl.pdf


But was thinking some sort of Brummel would be easier?

[CAM]

Brummel-ing is just a way of locking the splice against low-load (flogging) pull-out. The Samson instruction substitutes stitching, which is fine. The mobius brummel would be of no use if you are splicing through rings, and the standard brummel could be used for the first splice through the first ring. It's just a little quicker than stitching, so somewhat preferable. All three methods still require the tapered bury to achieve full strength.

Nuthin wrong with a cow-hitch, except a slight aesthetic difference. A bit stronger than splicing straight around the ring, since the loads are divided into the two parts going around the ring, I'm told. And easier to remodel if the design/hardware selection needs "perfecting".

[Ted Reshetiloff]

Thanks, I figured that the MB was not going to allow me to splice onto a ring so I stuck with the Samson instructions. The bridle actually came out pretty swell and works well. One thing is discovered though is on hoisting and lowering the dinghy to and from the davits the dinghy will often tilt up to 90* because we are lifting from the centerline and from a point nearly at the floor. A boathook allows us to keep this from happening but I may need to give this operation some more thought. For now its perfect because I can get the dinghy up to a point where the tubes lock up against the bottom of the davit arms and the dinghy is stabilized nicely without any additional straps. Onto my next adventure which will be retactable dyneema lazy jacks with a stack pack sailcover for the main and mizzen. Thanks all!

[Ian McColgin]

On the dink, this common problem when bringing a dink up on davits and wanting a snug fit is readily cured by two lighter lines. Splice or whatever to a point on the hoist a bit below gunnel level and have those lines clip, one to each side, inside the dink as low as you can and still have a good spread. Depending on the dink, about the turn of the bilge. You don't want to just use the two lines for lifting as the stresses of such a shallow inverted V taking the dink's weight (well half, since two hoists if davits) is considerable. So let your existing points take the weight and the side points just steady the boat. You probably only need one set of these.

G'luck

[Ted Reshetiloff]

Sorry but you lost me there. I have a lifting line with a snap shackle at the end for each davit so (2) lift lines. The dinghy has (4) lifting eyes inside; (2) in the transom inside close to the floor, and (2) near the bow inside near the floor. The lifting lines each connect to a ring, one fore and one aft. There is a short strop of dyneema with carabiners on each end that runs athwartships connecting the port and strbd lift eyes, one for the bow and one for stern. These strops pass through the rings which are snapshackled to the lifting lines. There is an additional piece of dyneema running fore and aft connecting the two rings to keep them directly below the lifting points on the davits. Looking down at the bridle it looks like a capital H. Iwas thinking that instead of having the line run through the rings it might be better have the lines connected, I tried this and it had no effect on the tipping because the lift point is so low.