Wooden Mast Partners

[allene]

Originally Posted by Brion Toss

The partners don't support the mast; the mast, wedged, should be unified with the partners, in order to create an effective couple with the step. If it isn't, what you have is, to some degree, a deck-stepped-keel-stepped mast, which is to say one that might be 40% or so more limber than it could be. So you either need a heavier mast -- which is the case for actual deck-stepped masts -- or you have one that won't hold its shape.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

So you are saying that what I have is correct in that the partners are snug with the mast and that what I was told is wrong?

[Ian McColgin]

To clarify terminology, partners refers to the whole structure of bracing around the deck or coachroof hole the mast goes through, collar, wedges and all. The hole needs to be large enough to get the mast in and out easily. The mast is then wedged nice and snug. As Brion explained, a keel stepped mast can be of lighter sections because it's held in two places.

On the boot, there are overpriced rubber boots that are nice for plastic boats with tin sticks. It's acutally easier to make a boot for a square or rectangular section mast - just four pieces - than for a round section that really works best with a six piece boot. That's the basic pieces, not counting a top and bottom bands.

G'luck

[allene]

Originally Posted by Ian McColgin

To clarify terminology, partners refers to the whole structure of bracing around the deck or coachroof hole the mast goes through, collar, wedges and all. The hole needs to be large enough to get the mast in and out easily. The mast is then wedged nice and snug. As Brion explained, a keel stepped mast can be of lighter sections because it's held in two places.

On the boot, there are overpriced rubber boots that are nice for plastic boats with tin sticks. It's acutally easier to make a boot for a square or rectangular section mast - just four pieces - than for a round section that really works best with a six piece boot. That's the basic pieces, not counting a top and bottom bands.

G'luck

OK, I found a nice picture showing what you said.


As for the boot, I agree that it is easy to make a boot for a square mast but I still assert it is more difficult to make one that keeps the rain out just because there is not a natural tension holding the sides tight against the mast. With a round mast, there is equal force all around the mast. With a square one, there is only tension at the corners. In other words, you can easily pinch the center edge of a square boot and pull it away from the mast. My bronze ring is rectangular as well, which doesn't help. The picture below still used some of that fancy self adhering silicon tape which I used before turning to duct tape in desperation. It leaked.

[Ian McColgin]

Especially for square section, I use a little "Shoe Goo" or their marine variation since it can be gotten off after a decade or so if the cloth wears out.

I have the boot inverted pointed up a bit higher than it will actually go - pays to practice and mark before any gooing. Pick up a bit of the edge against the mast and squeeze a bead of goo all the way around. Then start frapping from above (on the mast) the goo bead down so your squeeze out will be inside. Once that's completed, fold the bood down and into place to frap around the collar. The goo bead will keep the water from running in on the flats. Even on a round mast it's nice because with the boot folded down you have a cloth ring that tends to hold rain water against the mast and let it dribble unless sealed. Once running down the outside, it will be fine. Modern fabrics might be treated with silicon but natural cotton will swell.

G'luck

[benz]

I made my boot like yours, Allen, only with 2" vinyl pipe wrap tape rather than duct. Being plain black, I didn't need to cover it for looks, and it held up well to two years of tropical sun. And it never leaked a drop. But my boat has the advantage of a small, special-built coaming around the partners, which the boot goes to the outside of, which helps a lot. It would be easy enough to fabricate one with G-10 and epoxy.
Ben

[allene]

Originally Posted by benz

I made my boot like yours, Allen, only with 2" vinyl pipe wrap tape rather than duct. Being plain black, I didn't need to cover it for looks, and it held up well to two years of tropical sun. And it never leaked a drop. But my boat has the advantage of a small, special-built coaming around the partners, which the boot goes to the outside of, which helps a lot. It would be easy enough to fabricate one with G-10 and epoxy.
Ben

Same deal I think. I have that bronze ring that I assume is similar in application to the coaming. I assume the vinyl and the duct tape act the same but perhaps the vinyl tape is not as sensitive as duct tape to the sun. I use very expensive duct tape, best I could fine. It is marked all over the surface with all the standards that it meets.

I also use the duct tape on my whisker pole and there it doesn't hold up as well as where it is covered by the sumbrella. I will go get some of the vinyl tape and try that on my pole.

As far as shoe goo, I have used that on shoes but didn't think to try that on my mast boot. So now I have two new tricks to add to my quiver. Very cool.

Thanks to both Ian and Benz.

[benz]

Hi Allen.

The bronze ring is different from my deal in that mine is a little glassed-on vertical coaming, and the boot goes OVER it, covering it completely, and is made fast to it by a hose clamp (or in my case, heading twine), so that I don't have screws going down into my deck. If I was good at this I'd post a pic.
With what does Ian clean up excess shoe goo, I wonder?