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Old 03-31-2006, 03:55 AM
amalling amalling is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 4
Default I'm back!

Hi again.

I have figured it out now (I'm in the process of building the hull - money, or lack thereof gives me a little spare time to think).

I will be going carbon eventually, but I will begin with a birdsmouth, hollow fir mast.

The peak will be as the original, and the standing rig will be preocurt aluminium deadeyes (they don't make the micro-ones in steel).

The main will be loosefooted, as opposed to the original, and the boom for the foresail will be attached to the bowsprit instead of being lashed to the sail (I will ask my sailmaker how far form the front he will suggest I try, when the sail is made).

I will be using a U-bolt instead of a bobstay plate, because of the angle of the thing, and have precourt there as well.

If you look closely on the picture, you will notice that there are no spreaders, in fact there's nothing on the sides, but I will install that, and on the mast they will be "attached" via leather-covered eyes, slit down on the mast, and held in place by wooden blocks/clamps, so will the forestay, and the foresail up on the mast.

The rudder will of course be very different than the original, as I like to be able to steer it.

Everything will be "lashed", and when necessary, held in place by wooden blocks.

There will be gaff-vangs instead of the higher peak.

Where necessary, because of chafe, the rope will have leather covers.

The boom will be made with jaws, like the original, only it will be laminated, and I'm contemplating having a laminated "back" instead of beads or metal as in the original.

There will be hardwood-strips around the mast, at the boom, the gaff, first, second and third reefs.

Erm, oh yes, since the mast is movable, my turning blocks will be connected to the deck via spectra and folding padeyes, that way they are out of the way when the mast is moved forward, and vice versa.

One more thing, I hope it's okay - if you look at the way the bowsprit sits, you will notice that it is in fact the stem working as a butt-block, and therefore I will make two raised points along each side of the bowsprit, using two metal or hardwood crossbeams/stringers that will keep it down. That way it will be easier to take it off and on, instead of the bolts shown. (there will be a waterproof compartment under the foredeck).

Heh, sorry for the longwindedness, I just thought that I would update this thread since I had more information.

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/att...7&d=1143725043
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