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#1
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![]() Well Pelorus, after careful scrutiny of the whole bowsprit area, the "inside" idea won't work; won't bother you with the various reasons.
After giving your idea of utilizing a continuous line, that may be just the ticket, and a double continuous line might be even better. The problem I'm having (other than the precarious footing on a nicely varnished bowsprit in reeving the tack line) is that after gybing, the tack line chafes badly on the lower plates/furling hardware as the tack line is now on the other side. A second continuous line might solve this, but ideally, I'd not to bring the tack back to the stem head to gybe each time. Perhaps some leather chafe protection on the lower furling area? |
#2
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![]() Perhaps some chafe protection...or maybe seeing if you can get the block that's attached to the bowsprit out forward a little more away from the furler.
The bowsprit tip should be strong enough to take that strop a little further away from the cranse iron. Perhaps attach it to the bowsprit with a Dyneema loop seized around the bowsprit tip so that it's a few centimetres fwd of the furler rather than attaching it direct to the cranse iron? What you don't want to have to do is change the tack over every time you gybe. The idea of two lines is just to allow you to launch it without crawling out on the bowsprit to lead the tack line around the headstay. Once launched it shouldn't foul, regardless of which gybe you are on. |
#3
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![]() Yes, I've thought of that as well. Presently, the Schaefer block at the end of the cranze is of the 360 degree swiveling type and is merely shackled there.
A piece of Dyneema would certainly give it some distance forward of the Profurl drum and mitigate the chafing issue after gybing. My reason for not doing that already, other than aesthetic with the block dangling about on a foot-long piece of rope, is that I didn't want it bashing about when not in use and probably messing up my varnish job. But, with the continuous line more or less permanently reeved, the tension on that should prevent that. Another thought of function over form is that I might tape off the top portion of the bowsprit and, horror of horrors, sprinkle some fine non-skid into it this Summer; just in case I might have to 'dance' out there for some reason. I'm anxious to give this a try; gotta head back to Astoria, OR. for another week of work tomorrow, though. Then, if I can just stop spreading that Epifanes Eggshell enamel throughout the galley! Almost finished with that. Thanks much for your thoughts! |
#4
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![]() I really do feel that work is an embuggerance to pleasure, particularly of the sailing kind!!
As for a heavy block...I have had the same thing and I don't like it one bit. We are about to mount a Wichard low friction ring on a Dyneema strop instead of the block on a Dyneema strop. I'm not sure how well it will work, but this use fits the description: High load, limited travel. That doesn't completely solve the issue but it reduces the weight by about 80% and in a nicer form factor. You might also be able to seize the bottom end of the strop tight to something at the bottom of the furler to keep it upright. See if you can get some Dyneema chafe sleeve and put it over the strop. It is amazingly resistant stuff. If you get spare time at work here's a nice thread on knots and chafe and splices to keep you happy - it's long! http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/ind...0#entry4510500 |
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