Soft snap blocks

[Stumble]

Just curious if anyone has used a soft shackles as a snatch block? A friend destroyed his $500 snatch block (3000lbs wl, 6000lbs breaking) barber hauling out the jib tonight, and I got to thinking that just wrapping a soft shackle around the jib sheet might work.

Of course the sheet would have to deal with a bit of friction as it ran through the loop formed, but I think the slipperiness of the dyneema might allow it to work fine.

Alternatively I was thinking of whipping a thimble (with the legs pulled apart a bit) onto the soft shackle to give the sheet somewhere to run against that would reduce friction. This is similar to the colligio static lead blocks, but with only a half circle instead of the whole thing.


Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[benz]

As you suggested yourself, chafe would be an issue. A teardrop thimble would run the (small) risk of turning upside down, leaving the line around it to chafe on the sheet, or squeezing itself back shut as the line cinched around it. In the past I've clipped a suitably-sized carabiner to the sheet, and hauled it down with a tackle. For the most reliable and lightweight, if you don't want to spring for a Colligo setup, reeve the sheet through a bullseye fairlead (Antal calls them 'Low Friction Rings'). It will sit innocently against the genoa track car until needed, at which time you can slide it forward into position, attach a tackle to it with a soft shackle, and haul away. Done that way, you always know where it is, and it can't go overboard.
Ben

[allene]

I used locking carabiners. We tried non-locking ones but they liked to engage things like lifelines when we weren't looking. You can also use rings like they sell for climbing (REI) if they are strong enough. These are typically rated at 5000 pounds as is most climbing gear.

I would not use a soft shackle as a fairlead.

Allen

[audeojude]

If you just want a inexpensive but very strong snatch block check out the http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=26 ones. They have a 5000 lb working load one for 150 dollars directly from them. The model number is s70.

I was looking for one to use for my storm drogue for heaving to in rough weather and couldn't find anything thing of a size to handle 3/4 inch line unless I was spending 600 dollars or so. It was depressing. I couldn't believe the price for the Garhauer one it was so low compared to the other brands. I ordered two of them and was very impressed with the quality. When you hold them in your hand they just have that solid quality machined feel to them. These are big blocks and weigh a little over 2 lbs at 36 oz.

The prior mentioned posts suggestions would probably weigh much less though.

[Stumble]

I actually don't like the Gurhaur blocks because they require the line to be bent into the sheave. Obviously not a problem when th Elaine is unloaded, but snatch blocks in my eyes are for when the line is already loaded up, so bending it might not be possible. Generally though I like their gear.

[audeojude]

Originally Posted by Stumble

I actually don't like the Gurhaur blocks because they require the line to be bent into the sheave. Obviously not a problem when th Elaine is unloaded, but snatch blocks in my eyes are for when the line is already loaded up, so bending it might not be possible. Generally though I like their gear.

I'm not sure I understand. I haven't to date actually used the ones I purchased so maybe there is a downside there I am not aware of. My assumption was that you put the block onto the line, closed it and then took up tension on the block or that you would ease the line itself to put in the block before putting tension back on it.

When you say bend the line onto the block? Do you mean you can't put the block over a line that is straight with tension? That the line has to be bent around the sheeve before the cheek plate can be closed? I don't have the block in front of me right now but it didn't look like that was the case when I got it. I will take a look at it when I get to the boat tomorrow.

Scott

[Stumble]

Aude,

Let's say you want to add the block to a job sheet to act as a barber haul. The gurhaur blocks because of the way they are loaded requires you to bend the sheet partially around the sheave. This isn't that big a deal if the line is lightly loaded, or not at all, but when there are significant loads on the line you may or may not be able to get the line on the sheave. For me this is a critical design failure, but depending on your intended usage it might not matter to you that much.

[audeojude]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Aude,

Let's say you want to add the block to a job sheet to act as a barber haul. The gurhaur blocks because of the way they are loaded requires you to bend the sheet partially around the sheave. This isn't that big a deal if the line is lightly loaded, or not at all, but when there are significant loads on the line you may or may not be able to get the line on the sheave. For me this is a critical design failure, but depending on your intended usage it might not matter to you that much.

Hmmm... Technically for what I purchased these for I should have them setup and in place before any load at all is put on the line. However I could see needing to release one off a line that is under very high loads. The block itself wouldn't be loaded up but the line it's on would be. Time to take them out and play with them.

Thanks for the heads up. I will let you know how it works for me.

[Stumble]

The ones you have got the PS nod for budget buy, so they must be well made otherwise. I just can't get over the loading and unloading while the line is tight problem. I haven't used them, so I may be over analyzing, but it's a concern.